Hi, Lance and the usual suspects are: 1. Fouled spark plugs. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper 'LOAD' test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at 'BOTH' ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, 'INSIDE' and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module. Faulty pulse coil.
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2003 Husaberg Fe 400 Manual
Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor. Faulty ignition switch. Faulty run/off switch 11. Tilt sensor needs a reset. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below.
Good luck and have a wonderful day. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Answered on Mar 06, 2018. Hi, Barry it's nonadjustable for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Husaberg, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Answered on Nov 25, 2017. Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are: 1.
Spark plugs in bad condition or have an improper gap or are partially fouled. Spark plug cables in bad condition. Battery damaged or nearly discharged, should have 12.5 volts.
Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at 'BOTH' ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, 'INSIDE' and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary. Throttle controls not adjusted correctly. Water or dirt in the fuel system. Water or dirt in the carburetor. Intake air leak. Fuel tank vent hose and vapor valve plugged, or fuel line closed off, restricting fuel flow. Choke valve inoperative.
Engine lubricant to heavy (winter operation). Ignition is not functioning properly (possible sensor failure). Faulty ignition coil. Valves sticking.
For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Answered on Oct 08, 2017. Hi, Jonti16 and the usual suspects are: 1. Fouled spark plugs. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at 'BOTH' ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, 'INSIDE' and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and CDI box. Spark plug cables shorting or leaking, spark plug cable connections loose, check for spark leakage in the dark. Faulty ignition coil, pick up coil, trigger coil or CDI box testing needs to be checked with an ohmmeter at 70 degrees Fahrenheit 7. Faulty safety switches clutch, kickstand, neutral, off/on etc.
Faulty ignition switch. For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Answered on Mar 16, 2017. Hi, Anonymous for this situation I would call my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix/test or parts inquiry. If necessary transport your vehicle to the dealer or shop and have a professional technician take it for a test drive, if it is in running condition, and give you a written estimate of repairs and answer any specific questions you may have about your issue. For more information about your issue please visit the website below.
Good luck and have a nice day. Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at Answered on Oct 25, 2015. Is the battery fully charged.Get the battery voltage checked and confirmed. First check and make sure the starter works. You can use a jumper to bypass the solenoid and check that pretty easy.
If the starter turns over when you bypass the solenoid then you'll need a meter to continue testing and find out why the solenoid isn't working. That could be wires, start button, connectors or a bad solenoid.-Also check the electric start button, if the electric wire is getting short internally, then it can be the problem. A meter would check it, but a test light is all that you need. Listen carefully, do you hear solenoid click, when you apply electric start.You should hear the solenoid click.If there is no click, then its the cause.E ither the solenoid is bad or it doesn´t get power. To check the latter, remove the left side cover, locate the starter solenoid and disconnect the trigger wire (the small one, not the big one coming from the battery).- Hook a multimeter between this wire and ground - with the ignition on and the switch in the run position you should see 12 V here when you push the start button (with the clutch pulled in).
If you do, the problem is most likely the solenoid - make sure the other small wire is properly connected to ground.- But if you dont get 12 volt, then the electric start button connection needs to be checked.Check that you have 12 V on the side of the start-button that connects to the switch (with ignition on and switch in the run position), then check that you have 12 V on the other side of the start button with the button depressed. If you see 12 V on one side but not the other (button depressed) the problem is likely the start button itself.- This should help.Keep updated.Thanks.Helpmech. Answered on Oct 28, 2014.