From the Briggs Power Portal: Replacement Engine: NO REPLACEMENT ENGINE IS AVAILABLE Crankshaft Number: 491646Crankshaft No Replacement Engine: Repair W Individual Parts So, yep, he was correct. Looks like it's an improvise, adapt, and ovecome moment. You might check with smallenginewarehouse.com and see if they happen to have a replacement gathering dust on the shelf. Sometimes you get lucky with them.Does anyone have a photo of the governor linkage spring on this engine.it is very long? I cant find a large photo of it anywhere. This engine will not idle correct.it revs up very high on its own while under no load and if I set throttle lower it creps lower and lower until it dies.but under a load it idle a lot better.
11 Hp Briggs And Stratton Parts List
Can this be just the governor spring or can it also maybe be bad compression on a wore out engine or carb? Does anyone have a photo of the governor linkage spring on this engine.it is very long? I cant find a large photo of it anywhere. This engine will not idle correct.it revs up very high on its own while under no load and if I set throttle lower it creps lower and lower until it dies.but under a load it idle a lot better. Can this be just the governor spring or can it also maybe be bad compression on a wore out engine or carb?I am wondering why one doesn't just fix the wonky motor, make it run right, and have at it rather than look for a replacement? 1996 John Deere 425 Main Summer Machine - 20HP Liquid Cooled Kawasaki - Hydrostatic Twin Pedals - 48' Deck 197? John Deere 400 H3 Main Winter Machine Down - Fixing odds & ends - 19.9HP Kohler 532- Hydrostatic - 3PT Hitch - Back Blade - Snow Blower - Cab - Weights - Chains 1974 Massey 12G - Backup Machine - Tecumseh 12HP - 4 Speed Variator - 42' Mower Deck - Snow Blower - Tiller - Cab 1996 Sears GT6000 - Backup Machine - Kohler Command 22HP Twin - 6 Speed Hi/Low - 42' Mower Deck - 42' Dual Stage Blower - Brush Guard - ATV Tires - Chains & Weights 1974 John Deere 112 (Parts) 197?
John Deere 112 Electric Lift - Storage - 12HP Kohler K301- 4 Speed Manual - Turf Tires Past Machines & To-do's - 1974 Snapper LT16 - 1989 Murray GT18/46 - 1970 Massey Ferguson 10 - 2004 John Deere LA100- WIP. Undersized rods are no longer available for this engine, only STD size rods.they run about 30.00 0.010 and 0.030' pistons/rings are not available, only the 0.020' kit is available, it runs about 70.00 Wrist pin runs about 12.00 Engine gasket/seal set (no carb gaskets included) runs about 42.00 governor spring is 5 bucks. Machining, to bore out the cylinder, runs about 50 bucks. So you are looking at around 200 dollars in parts and machining costs, without touching the carb. Also not figuring any other worn parts, like syncro balance eccentrics or counter weights, etc.knowing the history of these engines to puke balancers out the back of the block.id be sure to inspect the eccentrics at least. 'Not to offend anyone, but thats the way the world is really, When something acts up we toss (Well the majority do anyways) and replace' 'I am definately in the miniority ' Me too, I have been in a long discussion on another forum about the practicality of this, with nearly all saying to throw the engine away.
'Engine gasket/seal set (no carb gaskets included) runs about 42.00' WOW, I buy gaskets and seals individually in bulk for this reason. While only.020' undersize rods are available for logical reasons,.010',.020' and.030' pistons and rings are available from aftermarket sources if not from B&S. Note that several B&S engines use this same piston & rings up thru 42 series. First thing I would do is inspect the counter balance.' y, IF bad, loose, rebuild is not practical.
I am puzzled about all the discussion on a replacement engine since there are lots of 12, 12.5, 13, 13.5 engines that will drop right in only concern being if the 11 hp is one which has a step down crank, 7/8' step down on the end OR if talking about a NEW engine. Service manuals & IPLs available at address below, put in proper format and remind me. Walt Conner wconner5 at frontier dot com. I got bit on a set of aftermarket rod, rings, piston on a 10hp Briggs some years ago.I did a quality rebuild on one of my own engines, after about 50 hours of run time it started smoking, (this was after 3 oil changes), the rings were out of spec, the piston had substantial skirt wear, but the rod was still good to go. I dropped the coin on some genuine briggs parts, and that engine is still in service to this day, on a 3800psi pressure washer, used commercially.
All grit was throughly flushed from the engine, and any grit presence would have scoured the rod/crank, but it was perfect. Briggs is gradually stopping production of parts for the flathead engines.Id say in 3-5 years, all internal parts will be discontinued and only available in the aftermarket or NOS. Undersized rods are no longer available for this engine, only STD size rods.they run about 30.00 0.010 and 0.030' pistons/rings are not available, only the 0.020' kit is available, it runs about 70.00 Wrist pin runs about 12.00 Engine gasket/seal set (no carb gaskets included) runs about 42.00 governor spring is 5 bucks. Machining, to bore out the cylinder, runs about 50 bucks. So you are looking at around 200 dollars in parts and machining costs, without touching the carb. Also not figuring any other worn parts, like syncro balance eccentrics or counter weights, etc.knowing the history of these engines to puke balancers out the back of the block.id be sure to inspect the eccentrics at least.
Do you think just a STD rod will work without having the crank machined? I thought I saw some undersized connecting rods on ebay but I could be mistaken. As for the eccentric and weight counterbalance.whats the proper way to check if they good enough shape to rebuild the engine?
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