1997 SeaDoo XP Parts Catalog - FREE PDF Download! Download SeaDoo Manuals: Select Year: 1997 SeaDoo XP (5662) Parts Catalog 1997 SeaDoo XP (5662) Parts Catalog Contents: ENGINE AND COMPONENTS EXHAUST SYSTEM ELECTRICAL SYSTEM COOLING SYSTEM OIL SYSTEM FUEL SYSTEM DRIVE AND PROPULSION SYSTEM STEERING SEAT AND SEAT SUSPENSION REAR ACCESS COVER, ENGINE/STORAGE COVER BODY ACCESSORIES SERVICE AND WARRANTY PRINTED MATTERS NUMERICAL INDEX Contents © “2018” www.SeaDooManuals.net. We are in no way affiliated with SeaDoo or Bombardier Inc. Shop at Jetskijunky: Link to us: Copy & Paste Code.
I just bought my first jet ski (a 1997 Seadoo XP) and decided to start documenting all the work that I do on it in this forum. Manual 2000 mercedes sl 600 where are ecm fuses. I'm sure no one here cares about the crap I do but its a nice way to keep track of everything. I got the ski in average condition for a 97.
The most noticeable issues include: -grey fuel lines -missing intake grate -worn/cracked seat -missing start button -faded hull -old/bad battery I decided to start with performance issues and fix things which will make sure that I have the ski for year to come. With that said the first thing I did was replace the start/stop button and battery I also bought a Poppy cover.
Next step, replace all the fuel lines. This is were I am now. I started by taking the seat off (which is a lot harder than it should be) and getting access to the fuel baffel.
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It was pretty dirty under the seat, I wouldn't be surprised if this is the first time its ever been off. I wanted to drain the gas because I don't know how old the gas is or what grade it is. After messing around for a while I was able to use a hand pump and drain the tank and put all the gas in my car (I had about 7 gallons, that a lot of $$$!). The first fuel line I replaced was the vent line.
The only real trouble I had was getting the factory hose clamps off. I found the best way was to squeeze them in a couple different directions with vice grips and then get small pliers and rip them open.
I made sure to mark all the lines I was taking out with colored zip ties and then labeling them on the schematic from the parts manual. The ski came with aftermarket K&N air filters on the carbs. I got some advice that I might be better off with the stock air box because it is better at keeping water out and the XPs are prone to getting water in the hull (especially when I'll be tipping it over all the time). I had a hell of a time getting the brackets which mount onto the carbs and hold the K&N filters off. There were 2 hex/allen screws holding the brackets and whoever put them on were stronger than me.
I almost stripped one and had to fight to get the other 3. After a lot of time, some blood and some cursing I got the brackets off and had access to the bolts holding the carbs to the intake. I then proceed to remove the carbs, being careful not the hurt anything on the way out. It look me a second the figure out how the disconnect the throttle cable but in the end I got everything out.
I am planning on rebuilding the carbs and bought the kits with all the springs, gaskets, o-rings and stuff. It will be the first carbs I take apart - so I'm not doing it alone. I want this thing to work when it goes back together. While everything is out I am going to do a good job cleaning out the hull and engine as best I can, its pretty dirty and the ski is new to me so I'll try to make it look new. So tonight I started to clean out the hull but was quickly stopped when I realized that paper towels won't do the job. I'm gonna pick up a nylon brush tomorrow and see how that goes.
As a cleaning solution I am planning on using bleach, anyone think that's a bad idea? Also pumped all the water/gas/oil/slimy stuff from out of the bottom. It was some nasty smelly stuff. Here's a before picture, hopefully tomorrow night I have some after.
Also I started to work on some more fuel lines but was paused when I used a little too much force on this elbow. I'll pick up a new one and start again tomorrow. With the vent lines removed and while looking around in the hull I came across what looks to be melted plastic on the steering cable harness and corrosion around the rectifier assembly.?? Take a look and let me know if you have any thoughts. So tonight I started to clean out the hull but was quickly stopped when I realized that paper towels won't do the job.
I'm gonna pick up a nylon brush tomorrow and see how that goes. As a cleaning solution I am planning on using bleach, anyone think that's a bad idea? Also pumped all the water/gas/oil/slimy stuff from out of the bottom. It was some nasty smelly stuff.
Here's a before picture, hopefully tomorrow night I have some after. Also I started to work on some more fuel lines but was paused when I used a little too much force on this elbow. I'll pick up a new one and start again tomorrow. With the vent lines removed and while looking around in the hull I came across what looks to be melted plastic on the steering cable harness and corrosion around the rectifier assembly.?? Take a look and let me know if you have any thoughts. Tonight I cleaned out most of the front end of the hull. I used super clean as recommended and it worked great.
The bottle said to dilute it 3-1 with water for fiberglass. Just spraying it washed away dirt before even having to scrub. This stuff is worth every penny. I removed the engine oil tank also, I am definitely going to clean up the tank, change the oil and replace to filter. Still debating whether or not to change out the oil lines. Finally, I got another elbow and assembled the second fuel line.
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I am not in too big of a hurry to get these done because I still have to rebuild the carburetors, which I think will be a big job. Anyone have any input on that nasty looking rectifier I posted last night? I hear that they do not have a big enough heat sink and tend to overheat. That would cause all the white corrosion looking material to form though.